Lemongrass oil (West Indian)
Under the IFRA Standards a rinse-off soap may hold up to 1.64 % of this oil, a limit set by its Citral.
IFRA maximum for soap
Restricted constituents, at the typical levels IFRA's annex gives:
- Citral
- 73 %
- Geraniol
- 2.3 %
- (E) 3,7-Dimethyl-3,6-octadienal (iso-Geranial)
- 1.2 %
- (Z) 3,7-Dimethyl-3,6-octadienal (iso-Neral)
- 1 %
- Isoeugenol
- 0.5 %
- Citronellal
- 0.3 %
- Eugenol
- 0.2 %
Worked out from typical levels. A supplier's certificate for your lot comes first, and its figure is the one to follow.
Check a blend against its IFRA limits and list its allergens in the fragrance and allergen calculator.
How essential oils behave in soap, and how much to use: Scenting soap.
Identity and labelling
Cymbopogon Citratus Leaf Oil
- Botanical name
- Cymbopogon citratus
- CAS
- 89998-14-1
- EC
- 289-752-0
The EU names this oil itself as a fragrance allergen (Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Annex III entry 354): it goes on the label by name above 0.01 % in a rinse-off product.
What it is and how it behaves in soap
West Indian lemongrass oil is steam-distilled from Cymbopogon citratus, the lemongrass of South-East Asian cooking, and it is mostly citral (SCCS). It smells much like the East Indian oil; in 1908 Simmons and Appleton noted that the two differ in solubility and price, the Indian oil being preferred.
What our books say of lemongrass applies to both: it lasts in cold process soap and anchors lighter citrus (Faiola), and it boosts other citrus scents (Grosso). Faiola's recipes run lemongrass from 2 to nearly 6 % of the oils, but citral holds the IFRA figure on this page far lower. That figure is the ceiling, so use lemongrass as part of a blend.
Citral is a skin sensitiser, and Cable notes lemongrass irritates some skin. Whatever older recipe titles suggest, a lemongrass soap keeps no insects away.
Sources
- CosIng, the cosmetic ingredient database: CYMBOPOGON CITRATUS LEAF OIL, European Commission
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, European Commission. Annex, entry 354
- Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission (2012). Cymbopogon citratus oil is mostly citral; citral and lemongrass oil among the established contact allergens
- W. H. Simmons and H. A. Appleton, The Handbook of Soap Manufacture, Scott, Greenwood & Son (1908). Lemongrass oil from India and the West Indies differs in properties and value, the Indian preferred for its solubility in alcohol
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Soap Crafting, Storey Publishing (2013). Lemongrass among the essential oils that are typically wonderful in cold process soap; used at 2.1 to 5.8 % of the oils
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Pure Soapmaking, Storey Publishing (2016). Lemongrass as the sturdier anchor for volatile lime
- Alicia Grosso, The Everything Soapmaking Book, 3rd edition, Adams Media (2013). Lemongrass used as a booster for citrus
- Kelly Cable, The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners, Althea Press (2017). Lemongrass can be a skin irritant to some