Petitgrain oil
Under the IFRA Standards a rinse-off soap may hold up to 16.66 % of this oil, a limit set by its 2-Hexenal.
IFRA maximum for soap
Restricted constituents, at the typical levels IFRA's annex gives:
- Geraniol
- 2.4 %
- Citral
- 0.65 %
- 2-Hexenal
- 0.09 %
- Citronellal
- 0.05 %
Worked out from typical levels. A supplier's certificate for your lot comes first, and its figure is the one to follow.
Check a blend against its IFRA limits and list its allergens in the fragrance and allergen calculator.
How essential oils behave in soap, and how much to use: Scenting soap.
Identity and labelling
Citrus Aurantium Amara Leaf/Twig Oil
- Botanical name
- Citrus aurantium
- CAS
- 68916-04-1, 72968-50-4
- EC
- 277-143-2
The EU does not name this oil itself as an allergen to label, but some of its constituents may be: the fragrance allergen tool works them out for a recipe.
What it is and how it behaves in soap
Petitgrain oil is steam-distilled from the leaves and twigs of the bitter orange tree. Bigarade petitgrain comes from France, Italy, Spain and North Africa, and petitgrain Paraguay from a variety naturalised there (SCCS). It smells green, woody and floral, like neroli without its sweetness.
Grosso calls it an excellent foil for sweet florals and a great blender, and a little lifts lavender, geranium or ylang-ylang. Failor uses it in her perfume-style blends. Our books give no cold process rate, so start from Fisher's general 3.1 to 4.4 % of the oils and test a small batch first (Faiola). The IFRA figure on this page is the ceiling.
Much of the oil is linalyl acetate (Simmons and Appleton), which with linalool oxidises in air into skin sensitisers (SCCS), so keep the bottle cool, full and closed.
Recipes that use it
Sources
- CosIng, the cosmetic ingredient database: CITRUS AURANTIUM AMARA LEAF/TWIG OIL, European Commission
- Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission (2012). Petitgrain bigarade from France, Italy, Spain and North Africa; petitgrain Paraguay from an acclimatised bitter orange; linalool and linalyl acetate autoxidise to sensitisers
- EFSA FEEDAP Panel, Safety and efficacy of a feed additive consisting of an essential oil from the leaves of Citrus × aurantium L. (petitgrain bigarade oil) for use in all animal species, EFSA Journal (2021). Steam distillation of the leaves
- Alicia Grosso, The Everything Soapmaking Book, 3rd edition, Adams Media (2013). Petitgrain an excellent foil for sweet florals and a great blender
- Catherine Failor, Making Transparent Soap, Storey Publishing (2000). Petitgrain in her essential oil fragrance formulas
- David Fisher, The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making, Creative Publishing International (2018). Starting rate of 0.5 to 0.7 oz of scent per pound of oils
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Soap Crafting, Storey Publishing (2013). Test an untried scent in a batch of 1 lb or less
- W. H. Simmons and H. A. Appleton, The Handbook of Soap Manufacture, Scott, Greenwood & Son (1908). Petitgrain oil esters, calculated as linalyl acetate, 40 to 55 %