The oils
| Oil | Share |
|---|---|
| Olive Oil (virgin / refined / olive oil) | 35.0 % |
| Shea Butter | 25.0 % |
| Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) | 15.0 % |
| Coconut Oil | 20.0 % |
| Castor Oil | 5.0 % |
How it is made
| Process | Cold process |
| Alkali | NaOH |
| Superfat | 8 % |
| Water | lye water at 33 % |
| Iodine value | 54 |
| INS | 146 |
What the numbers say
Hardness 42 29–54
Cleansing 14 12–22
Conditioning 54 44–69
Bubbly lather 18 14–46
Creamy lather 33 16–48
Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.
Try it differently
20 variationsThe same soap with one thing moved. Each opens in the calculator ready to change again.
- Mango Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- Kokum Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- Illipe Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- Sal Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- Murumuru Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil)
- 5 % superfat
- 12 % superfat
- Mango Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Mango Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
- Kokum Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Kokum Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
- Illipe Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Illipe Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
- Sal Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Sal Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
- Murumuru Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 5 % superfat
- Murumuru Butter instead of Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) and 12 % superfat
Where these proportions come from
Our own construction: 40 % butters, which is about where a bar stops feeling like soap and starts feeling waxy.
A canonical formulation: the proportions the craft has settled on for this kind of soap. Not transcribed from a document, and not copied from anywhere.