Lemon oil
Under the IFRA Standards a rinse-off soap may hold up to 20 % of this oil, a limit set by its 7-Methoxycoumarin.
IFRA maximum for soap
Restricted constituents, at the typical levels IFRA's annex gives:
- Citral
- 3.5 %
- Citronellal
- 0.1 %
- Geraniol
- 0.1 %
- 7-Methoxycoumarin
- 0.05 %
Worked out from typical levels. A supplier's certificate for your lot comes first, and its figure is the one to follow.
Check a blend against its IFRA limits and list its allergens in the fragrance and allergen calculator.
How essential oils behave in soap, and how much to use: Scenting soap.
Identity and labelling
Citrus Limon Peel Oil
- Botanical name
- Citrus limon
- CAS
- 8008-56-8, 84929-31-7
- EC
- 284-515-8
The EU names this oil itself as a fragrance allergen (Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Annex III entry 353): it goes on the label by name above 0.01 % in a rinse-off product.
What it is and how it behaves in soap
Lemon oil is pressed from the peel of Citrus limon without heat, mainly in Argentina, Italy, Spain, South Africa, Brazil and the United States (EFSA). It smells exactly like lemon zest, and it is one of the scents that vanish fastest from cold process soap.
Grosso says lemon needs a boost from other citrus or lemon-scented oils and a resin such as benzoin; Fisher blends 85 % lemon with 15 % litsea to anchor it, and a base note such as cedarwood helps too. Cable's recipes use lemon at 0.8 to 1.6 % of the oils. The IFRA figure on this page is the ceiling.
Cold-pressed lemon is phototoxic on skin left in the sun. IFRA restricts it in leave-on products but not in rinse-off soap. Citrus oils go off within months (Cavitch), and oxidised limonene is a potent sensitiser (SCCS), so buy a little at a time and keep it cold.
Recipes that use it
Sources
- CosIng, the cosmetic ingredient database: CITRUS LIMON PEEL OIL, European Commission
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, European Commission. Annex, entry 353
- EFSA FEEDAP Panel, Safety and efficacy of feed additives consisting of expressed lemon oil and its fractions from Citrus limon (L.) Osbeck and of lime oil from Citrus aurantiifolia (Christm.) Swingle, EFSA Journal (2021). Lemon oil expressed from the peel without heat; lemons grown for it mainly in Argentina, Brazil, Italy, Spain, South Africa and the US, among others
- Alicia Grosso, The Everything Soapmaking Book, 3rd edition, Adams Media (2013). Lemon needs a boost in cold process from other citrus and citrus-like scents and a resin like benzoin
- David Fisher, The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making, Creative Publishing International (2018). Lemon, or 85 % lemon and 15 % litsea cubeba to anchor it; cedarwood as a base note
- Kelly Cable, The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners, Althea Press (2017). Lemon at 0.8 to 1.6 % of the oils; phototoxicity is not a danger in soap
- IFRA Standard: Lemon oil cold pressed (Amendment 49), International Fragrance Association (2020). Restricted for phototoxicity in leave-on categories; no restriction in category 9
- Susan Miller Cavitch, The Natural Soap Book, Storey Publishing (1995). Citrus oils are vulnerable after about six months
- Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission (2012). Oxidised limonene is a potent sensitiser