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Plant colours

Nettle leaf, powdered

Muted green. Lovely Greens supplier or guide

Try it in the lye calculator

Opens the calculator’s starter recipe, 1000 g of oils, with this additive at the dose it fills in, ready to change.

What it is

Powdered nettle leaf is the dried leaf of stinging nettle, ground fine.

The Nerdy Farm Wife supplier or guide, Letcavage & Harden, Natural Soap Making primary source

How much

The calculator fills in 1 tsp per pound of oils: 3.7 g for the 1000 g of oils in its starter recipe.

When and how

  • Usually: at light trace.
  • Also used: into the oils.
  • Mix it with about three times its volume of the recipe’s water, held back for it: a teaspoon of powder to a tablespoon of water.
  • Into the oils: Infuse it in some of the recipe’s oil ahead of time, then strain it out.

Lovely Greens supplier or guide, Letcavage & Harden, Natural Soap Making primary source, The Nerdy Farm Wife supplier or guide

What it does to the recipe

  • It changes neither the lye nor the water: it is only weight in the bar.

Worth knowing

Spoons and drops

  • 1 tsp ≈ 1.69 g (1.35–2.02 g)
  • 1 tbsp ≈ 5.06 g (4.05–6.06 g)
  • 1 cup ≈ 80.9 g (64.8–97 g)

Monterey Bay Herb Company; Frontier Co-op; Foods 2021 supplier or guide

INCI name

Urtica Dioica Leaf Powder

Recipes that use it

Guides that discuss it

Sources

Lovely Greens · supplier or guide

Lovely Greens, natural soap colorants: cinnamon, "use up to 1 tsp ground cinnamon powder PPO. Be aware that cinnamon leaves a slightly gritty feeling"; beetroot, "Warm to dull brown", "Unfortunately, beets do not color CP/HP soap red"; black walnut hull powder, "Add powder at trace and be aware that they create a scratchy or exfoliating texture"; red sandalwood, "Add 1/4-1/2 tsp powder PPO at trace after premixing in a little oil. Can be very scratchy if you use more than this"; woad, "Add 1-2 tsp powder PPO to the lye solution"; rose hips, "Up to 1 tsp ground rosehip powder PPO"; nettle leaf, "muted green", "Premix dried and powdered nettle leaf with a little water and add at trace. Use 1-3 tsp PPO"; kelp, "Dark green", "at trace at up to 3 tsp PPO. Pre-mix in an equal amount of distilled water"; sage, "muted green that fades with time", or "1 tsp PPO dried sage at trace for dark speckles"; peppermint, "1 tsp PPO finely ground peppermint leaves at trace"; liquid chlorophyll, "stunning greens from using about 1 TBSP PPO", fading "into a greeny-yellow"; cucumber, "initially green but usually fades to a muted yellow"; chamomile, "Infuse flowers in distilled water and use the strained liquid to make the lye solution"; green tea, "Brown-green"; rhassoul clay, "Brown"; French green clay, "pale pastel green to earthy green"; "plant-based greens tend to be fugitive". PPO is per pound of oils.

Letcavage & Harden, Natural Soap Making · primary source

Elizabeth Letcavage and Melissa Harden, Natural Soap Making (Stackpole Books, 2013): calendula "is the only flower that will keep its yellow color through the saponification process. Other flowers ... will turn brown or black"; "Lavender flowers will have a nicer appearance in soap if they are slightly ground"; light additives "(such as seeds, grains, or lavender flower buds)" are added at "heavy trace" to stay suspended; "Leaves of herbs such as mint, nettle leaf, and lemon balm are dried before use"; "Ground Nettle Leaf 2–3 teaspoons", "Ground Oats ¼ cup" and "Ground Cornmeal ¼ cup" in recipes of 48 oz of oils, added at light trace; the Basic Three-Oil Soap, 48 oz of oils, takes "½ cup ground oats or other additive".

The Nerdy Farm Wife · supplier or guide

The Nerdy Farm Wife, nettle and horsetail shampoo bars: the olive oil "infused with stinging nettle & horsetail, if possible"; "Place the saucepan over a low burner and heat gently for about 1 1/2 hours, or until the herbs are infused into the oils to your satisfaction"; "Strain the oils into a new container, pressing firmly with the back of a spoon to make sure you get most of the oil from the herbs."

Faiola, Pure Soapmaking · primary source

Anne-Marie Faiola, Pure Soapmaking (Storey Publishing, 2016), chapter 5, "Herbal and Other Additives for Soap", each at "2 tsp powder per pound of soap": olive leaf powder, "Yellow/green", "Will fade with exposure to light"; comfrey powder, "Light green", "Gel phase enhances the color. Will fade substantially with exposure to light"; nettle leaf powder, "Green"; spirulina powder, "Deep green", "Color is enhanced by a hot gel phase, but will fade substantially with exposure to light"; indigo powder, "Blue/gray", "added as a dispersed powder ... or added directly to hot lye-water before combining oils"; alkanet root powder, "Purple/gray", "Infusion will fade over time; dispersed powder is more color stable"; paprika, "Red/orange", "Gives a speckled appearance"; rose clay, "Rosy pink", "Disperse in distilled water instead of oil"; madder root powder, "Dark red"; yarrow powder, "Yellow/tan", "Dispersed powder can be added at trace, or the dry powder can be infused into lye-water to create a more yellow hue"; cocoa powder, "Rich brown", "Gel phase enhances the color, as does exposure to air". For the chart’s soaps "all powdered additives were dispersed at a ratio of 1 part powder: 3 parts oil"; "The colorants were added at trace and went through gel phase." Oil infusions: "most soapers use at least 2 tablespoons of herb for every 4 ounces of oil. I prefer to use a tablespoon of herb for every ounce." Clay in the water before the lye: "The heat reaction from the lye-water will produce a deeper color than will adding the clay at thin trace".

Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009; 21 CFR 73 · primary source

EU: Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, Article 14(1)(c), a product may contain as colourants only those in Annex IV. US: 21 CFR Part 73 Subpart C lists the colour additives for cosmetics, and turmeric, paprika and spirulina are listed for food only; under 21 CFR 701.20 a true soap, sold only as soap, is not a cosmetic.

Monterey Bay Herb Company; Frontier Co-op; Foods 2021 · supplier or guide

Nettle leaf powder by volume: "approximate cups to one pound: 5", 0.383 g/mL (Monterey Bay Herb Company, conventional and organic); 7 cups in a 1 lb bag, 0.274 g/mL (Frontier Co-op); a loose bulk density of 0.41 g/cm³ for air-dried leaves milled through a 0.5 mm sieve (Foods 10(6):1152, 2021, doi:10.3390/foods10061152, table 1). Density = 453.6 g ÷ (cups × 236.6 mL).

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