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Oils

Rosehip Seed Oil

INCI Rosa Canina Seed Oil. Also: Rosa canina seed oil, Rose hip seed oil, Rosa rubiginosa seed oil (rosa mosqueta), Rosehip oil, Rosa mosqueta oil.

How much lye · 1 kg · Superfat 5 %
131.0 g NaOH 183.8 g KOH 100 %

Calculate a 100 % Rosehip Seed Oil bar

Published values

Saponification value193.47 mg KOH/g
Used by the calculator193.5 mg KOH/g (typical)
SAP for NaOH0.1379 g/g
Iodine value170.04 g I₂/100 g
INS (SAP − IV)23
Melting point-25.56 °C
Unsaponifiable matter1.37 %

Soapmaking books print about 0.133 g NaOH per g (median of 2 books). Books print 0.133 g NaOH per g for rosehip oil. Measured oils of both species sold as rosehip came in at 190 and 193.5 mg KOH/g, and their fatty acids agree, so we use 193.5 (0.138); in a recipe the difference is small.

A bar made of 100 % Rosehip Seed Oil

Hardness 6 below 29–54
Cleansing 0 below 12–22
Conditioning 92 above 44–69
Bubbly lather 0 below 14–46
Creamy lather 6 below 16–48

Conventional qualities summed from the fatty-acid groups; a single-oil bar is a reference point, not a recipe.

How much lye

OilNaOHKOH
500 g 65.5 g 91.9 g
1 kg 131.0 g 183.8 g
1 lb (454 g) 59.4 g 83.4 g
2 lb (907 g) 118.9 g 166.7 g

For this oil alone at 5 % superfat, with pure sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or pure potassium hydroxide (KOH); in brackets, across the published range of its saponification value. KOH is usually sold at 90 %: divide by 0.9. For a whole recipe, open the calculator.

Fatty-acid profile

Saturated : unsaturated 7 : 93

Fatty acidPublished range, %Used
Palmitic acid C16:0 · saturated 3.7 3.7
Palmitoleic acid C16:1 0.1 0.1
Stearic acid C18:0 · saturated 2.2 2.2
Oleic acid C18:1 19.3 19.3
Linoleic acid C18:2 51.1 51.1
α-Linolenic acid C18:3 n-3 21.4 21.4
Arachidic acid C20:0 · saturated 1.1 1.1
Gadoleic acid C20:1 0.4 0.4
Behenic acid C22:0 · saturated 0.2 0.2

Compare it with other oils

Where these numbers come from

CSIC (Grasas y Aceites), open access — Comprehensive characterization of physicochemical, thermal, compositional, and sensory properties of cold-pressed rosehip seed oil (Eren T., Ok S., Yilmaz E.; Grasas y Aceites 2023, 74(4), e534; DOI 10.3989/gya.0533231) · document dated 2023 · read 2026-09-20

Physicochemical table (saponification value, iodine value, unsaponifiable matter, acid value, free fatty acids, peroxide value, refractive index, density), DSC melting/crystallisation onsets, and Table 4 fatty-acid composition.

Species: Rosa canina L. (dog rose); seeds from the Gumushane region, Turkey (harvest November 2020, cold-pressed June 2021); one oil, analysed in replicate. All values are single-sample means +/- SD from one open-access paper, so no min/max ranges are given: saponification value 193.47 +/- 2.22 mg KOH/g, iodine value 170.04 +/- 2.54 g I2/100 g, unsaponifiable matter 1.37 +/- 0.04 %, acid value 3.22 +/- 0.14 mg KOH/g (free fatty acids 1.61 % as linoleic), peroxide value 14.54 +/- 0.91 meq O2/kg, refractive index 1.48 at 25 C, density 0.92 at 25 C. 'the melting point' is the DSC melting ONSET (-25.56 +/- 0.17 C; crystallisation onset -45.25 C), i.e. The oil is liquid at all room temperatures. Fatty acids from Table 4 (total saturated 7.50 %, unsaturated 92.50 %); 'linolenic' is alpha-linolenic (21.40 %); C20:1 eicosenoic is mapped to 'gadoleic'. Rosa rubiginosa (Chilean rosa mosqueta) oil was not separately sourced; values here are for R. canina only. INCI name from CosIng. INCI: Rosehip seed oil is sold from two species with separate CosIng entries: Rosa Canina Seed Oil and Rosa Rubiginosa Seed Oil (rosa mosqueta). Use the one on your supplier’s documents.

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