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Oils

Evening Primrose Oil

INCI Oenothera Biennis Oil. CAS 90028-66-3; EC 289-859-2, as CosIng gives them. Also: Oenothera biennis seed oil, EPO, Evening primrose seed oil.

How much lye · 1 kg · Superfat 5 %
126.9 g NaOH 178.0 g KOH 100 %

Calculate a 100 % Evening Primrose Oil bar

Published values

Saponification value187.35 mg KOH/g
Used by the calculator187.4 mg KOH/g (typical)
SAP for NaOH0.1336 g/g
Iodine value125–165 g I₂/100 g
INS (SAP − IV)42
Melting point—
Unsaponifiable matter3.2–5.2 %

Soapmaking books print about 0.136 g NaOH per g (median of 4 books), which agrees with ours to within 2 %.

A bar made of 100 % Evening Primrose Oil

Hardness 8 below 29–54
Cleansing 0 below 12–22
Conditioning 92 above 44–69
Bubbly lather 0 below 14–46
Creamy lather 7 below 16–48

Conventional qualities summed from the fatty-acid groups; a single-oil bar is a reference point, not a recipe.

How much lye

OilNaOHKOH
500 g 63.4 g 89.0 g
1 kg 126.9 g 178.0 g
1 lb (454 g) 57.6 g 80.7 g
2 lb (907 g) 115.1 g 161.5 g

For this oil alone at 5 % superfat, with pure sodium hydroxide (NaOH) or pure potassium hydroxide (KOH); in brackets, across the published range of its saponification value. KOH is usually sold at 90 %: divide by 0.9. For a whole recipe, open the calculator.

Fatty-acid profile

Saturated : unsaturated 8 : 92

Fatty acidPublished range, %Used
Caprylic acid C8:0 · saturated 0.2 0.2
Lauric acid C12:0 · saturated 0.3 0.3
Myristic acid C14:0 · saturated 0.1 0.1
Palmitic acid C16:0 · saturated 5.2–7.2 6.2
Palmitoleic acid C16:1 0.1 0.1
Stearic acid C18:0 · saturated 0.4–1.6 1.0
Oleic acid C18:1 6.6–14.2 10.4
Linoleic acid C18:2 70.7–70.8 70.8
α-Linolenic acid C18:3 n-3 0.2–0.3 0.3
γ-Linolenic acid C18:3 n-6 7.1–13.7 10.4
Arachidic acid C20:0 · saturated 0.1–0.3 0.2
Gadoleic acid C20:1 0.2 0.2
Behenic acid C22:0 · saturated 0.1 0.1

Compare it with other oils

Where these numbers come from

MDPI (Pharmaceuticals), open-access copy via PubMed Central — Phytochemical Analysis of Lipid Composition and Biological Activities in the Seeds of Evening Primrose from Bulgaria (Zheleva A. et al.; Pharmaceuticals 2026, 19(2):225; DOI 10.3390/ph19020225) · document dated 2026 · read 2026-09-20

Table 1 oil content (16.9 / 16.7 %), Table 2 unsaponifiable matter (3.2 / 5.2 %), Table 3 fatty-acid composition for the 2023 and 2024 harvests.

Frontiers Media (Frontiers in Nutrition), open-access copy via PubMed Central — Cold pressed oils: a systematic review on physicochemical properties, nutritional composition and pharmacological activities (Front. Nutr. 2026; DOI 10.3389/fnut.2026.1747029) · document dated 2026 · read 2026-09-20

Table 1 row 'Evening primrose oil': iodine value 125-165, saponification value 187.35, unsaponifiable 1-3 %, density 0.91-0.93 (review's reference [88]).

Fatty acids and unsaponifiable matter are from the PRIMARY open-access paper (Pharmaceuticals 2026) on Bulgarian Oenothera biennis seeds from two harvest years: Table 3 gives, for 2023 / 2024 respectively, palmitic 5.2 / 7.2, stearic 1.6 / 0.4, oleic 14.2 / 6.6, linoleic 70.7 / 70.8, alpha-linolenic 0.2 / 0.3, GAMMA-linolenic 7.1 / 13.7, arachidic 0.3 / 0.1, gadoleic 0.2 / not detected, behenic 0.1 / nd, palmitoleic 0.1 / nd, caprylic nd / 0.2, lauric nd / 0.3, myristic 0.1 / 0.1, margaric C17:0 0.1 / 0.1, heptadecenoic C17:1 0.1 / 0.1, nervonic C24:1 nd / 0.1 (% of total). The min/max in this record are the two-year spread; acids detected in only one year are given as 'typical'. Evening primrose oil's defining acid, gamma-linolenic acid (GLA, C18:3 n-6, 7.1-13.7 % here), is stored under its own key 'gammaLinolenic', separately from 'linolenic' (alpha-linolenic only). Unsaponifiable matter measured 3.2 +/- 0.1 % (2023) and 5.2 +/- 0.1 % (2024), Table 2; the review below quotes 1-3 % and another Foods 2025 paper (PMC11765098) cites 1-2 % from literature, so commercial oils are usually lower than this record's range. Saponification value (187.35 mg KOH/g) and iodine value (125-165 g I2/100 g) were NOT measured in the primary paper; they are transcribed from Table 1 of the Frontiers in Nutrition 2026 systematic review of cold-pressed oils (row 'Evening primrose oil', attributed there to its reference [88]; the same row lists density 0.91-0.93). Treat the SAP as a literature typical value, not a specification. Melting point not given (liquid oil). INCI name from CosIng. INCI: The CosIng name has no plant part in it — "Oenothera Biennis Oil", not "... Seed Oil" — though the oil is pressed from the seed.

This record is part of the open ingredient database (ODbL), which you can download as CSV or JSON. Found an error or a better primary source? Corrections with a link to the document are welcome at support@soapformulator.com.