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Everyday bars

Everyday bar, gentler

Three plain ivory soap bars beside a jug of olive oil and a small bottle of castor oil on a deep blue backdrop

The usual olive, coconut and palm bar made milder: less coconut oil, more olive oil, a little castor oil for creamy lather and a 6 % superfat. Unscented, it suits hands that are washed all day and anyone who finds the 40/30/30 bar drying.

Skill
Beginner
Method
Cold process
Batch
1000 g of oils about 1417 g of batter
Hands-on
1 hour
Cure
6 weeks
Gel phase
Either way gel or not, both work
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What you need

For 1000 g of oils, which fills a 1.5 litre loaf mould. Weigh everything, liquids included.

Olive Oil · 50.0 % 500 g 17.64 oz
Coconut Oil · 20.0 % 200 g 7.05 oz
Palm Oil · 25.0 % 250 g 8.82 oz
Castor Oil · 5.0 % 50 g 1.76 oz
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) · the lye, 100 % pure 137.5 g 4.85 oz
Distilled water · for a 33 % lye solution 279.1 g 9.84 oz
Superfat
6 %
Temperatures
Oils and lye solution each between 35 and 43 °C (95 and 110 °F)

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Method

  1. Get ready

    Put on splash goggles, nitrile gloves and long sleeves, open a window or turn on the extractor fan, and keep children and pets out of the room. Line the mould and set it where it can stay level for two days.
  2. Melt and stir the palm oil

    Warm the whole tub of palm oil until it is liquid and stir it well before weighing any, since it separates as it stands.
  3. Weigh the oils

    Weigh 250 g palm oil and 200 g coconut oil into the pot, and 500 g olive oil and 50 g castor oil into a jug. Stir the jug so the thick castor oil does not sit at the bottom.
  4. Make the lye solution

    Weigh 279.1 g distilled water into a heat-safe jug and 137.5 g sodium hydroxide into a small dry container. In a well-ventilated spot, pour the lye slowly into the water, never the water onto the lye, and stir until clear. Leave it to cool, labelled and out of reach.
  5. Melt the hard oils

    Melt the palm and coconut oils together on low heat until clear, then pour in the olive and castor oils.
  6. Check the temperatures

    Carry on when the oils are clear and both they and the lye solution are between 35 and 43 °C (95 and 110 °F); the two need not match.
  7. Combine

    Pour the lye solution into the oils down the shaft of the stick blender, tap the blender on the bottom of the pot to let trapped air out, and keep the blade under the surface while it runs.
  8. Blend to light trace

    Pulse for a few seconds and stir, over and over. With half the oils liquid the batter thickens gently, usually in three to six minutes; stop when a drizzle leaves a faint line on the surface.
  9. Pour and cover

    Pour into the mould, tap it on the worktop to raise air bubbles, and cover it with a lid or board and a folded towel. It may gel and turn dark and glossy in the middle for a few hours, which is fine either way.
  10. Clean up with your gloves on

    Wipe the raw batter off the pot and tools with paper towels into the bin, then wash everything in hot soapy water.
  11. Unmould and cut

    After 24 to 48 hours, when the loaf is firm to a pressed finger, unmould it with gloves on and cut it into bars about 2.5 cm (1 in) thick.
  12. Cure

    Stand the bars on edge in a dry, airy room for six weeks, turning them every few days. The extra olive oil makes a bar that keeps hardening and getting milder for weeks after it is usable.

Tips

  • Set a bar of this beside one of Everyday bar, the usual three: the main change is 10 % of the oils moved from coconut to olive and castor, and it is the easiest way to feel what the cleansing number means. For milder still and palm-free, see Unscented baby bar.
  • To scent it, stir 20 to 30 g of lavender essential oil into the batter at light trace. Nothing else changes, since the lye is worked out on the oils alone.
  • Buy palm oil certified by the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), or use one of this recipe's variants, which put tallow, lard or shea butter in its place with the lye worked out again.

Why make it

Cutting the coconut oil to 20 % and raising the olive oil to half the blend takes the cleansing number from 21 to 14 on our scale, while a little castor oil keeps the lather creamy. That makes this a bar for people who wash their hands many times a day, or who find ordinary soap leaves their skin feeling tight. It is unscented on purpose: dermatologists advise people with dry, sensitive skin to wash with a gentle cleanser and avoid fragrance (American Academy of Dermatology). No soap is a treatment, and anyone with a skin condition should follow their own doctor's advice. The price of the extra olive oil is a slightly softer bar, which needs its full six weeks to harden and lasts longer on a dish that drains.

Sources

What tradition, makers' experience and research say about soaps like this, each labelled for what it is. It is not medical advice, and no soap treats a skin condition: if you have one, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

What the numbers say

  • Lauric acid 9.9 %
  • Myristic acid 4.1 %
  • Palmitic acid 19.6 %
  • Stearic acid 3.3 %
  • Ricinoleic acid 4.4 %
  • Oleic acid 46.2 %
  • Linoleic acid 9.3 %
  • Other 4.5 %

Saturated : unsaturated 39 : 61

Hardness 37 29–54
Cleansing 14 12–22
Conditioning 60 44–69
Bubbly lather 18 14–46
Creamy lather 27 16–48

Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.

Try it differently

20 variations

The same soap with one thing moved. Each opens in the calculator ready to change again.

From the guides

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Guides with this recipe

Where these proportions come from

Our own construction: the usual olive, coconut and palm three with coconut oil dropped to 20 %, the change most often made when the 40/30/30 bar feels drying, castor oil added at 5 % to win back some lather, and a 6 % superfat.

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