Ylang-ylang oil
Under the IFRA Standards a rinse-off soap may hold up to 1.4 % of this oil, a limit set by its Ylang ylang extracts.
IFRA maximum for soap
Restricted constituents, at the typical levels IFRA's annex gives:
- Benzyl benzoate
- 6.32 %
- Benzyl salicylate
- 3.11 %
- Farnesol
- 1.5 %
- Geraniol
- 0.67 %
- Isoeugenol
- 0.52 %
- Eugenol
- 0.31 %
- Benzyl alcohol
- 0.25 %
- Isoeugenyl acetate
- 0.12 %
Worked out from typical levels. A supplier's certificate for your lot comes first, and its figure is the one to follow.
Check a blend against its IFRA limits and list its allergens in the fragrance and allergen calculator.
How essential oils behave in soap, and how much to use: Scenting soap.
Identity and labelling
Cananga Odorata Flower Oil
- Botanical name
- Cananga odorata
- CAS
- 83863-30-3, 8006-81-3, 68606-83-7
- EC
- 281-092-1
The EU names this oil itself as a fragrance allergen (Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Annex III entry 347): it goes on the label by name above 0.01 % in a rinse-off product.
What it is and how it behaves in soap
Ylang-ylang oil is steam-distilled from the fresh flowers of Cananga odorata, grown mainly in Madagascar, Mayotte and the Comoros (ISO 3063). The distillate is collected in successive fractions, from "extra", richest in the light floral notes, to the heavier third (ISO 3063; SCCS). All smell heavy, sweet and floral, with a creamy, slightly spicy note.
Grosso finds it holds its own in soap and makes a good foil for lime and lavender; Cable counts it as a base note, Faiola as a middle note. Cable uses it at 0.7 to 2.4 % of the oils, often with citrus. It is strong, so start small.
IFRA restricts ylang-ylang through a Standard of its own because it can sensitise skin, and the figure on this page is the ceiling; the SCCS counts it among the allergens of special concern. In 1908 it was reserved for the finest soaps (Simmons and Appleton).
Recipes that use it
Sources
- CosIng, the cosmetic ingredient database: CANANGA ODORATA FLOWER OIL, European Commission
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, European Commission. Annex, entry 347
- ISO 3063:2004, Oil of ylang-ylang [Cananga odorata (Lam.) Hook. f. et Thomson forma genuina], International Organization for Standardization (2004). Steam distillation of the fresh flowers, grown mainly in Madagascar, Mayotte and the Comoros; collected as successive fractions
- Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission (2012). Ylang-ylang fractions extra, I, II and III; the first richest in p-cresyl methyl ether, benzyl acetate and linalool; ylang-ylang oil among the allergens of special concern
- Alicia Grosso, The Everything Soapmaking Book, 3rd edition, Adams Media (2013). Ylang-ylang holds its own in soapmaking; a foil for lime and lavender
- Kelly Cable, The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners, Althea Press (2017). Ylang-ylang as a base note; at 0.7 to 2.4 % of the oils
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Pure Soapmaking, Storey Publishing (2016). Ylang-ylang among the middle notes
- IFRA Standard: Ylang ylang extracts (Amendment 49), International Fragrance Association (2020). Restricted in every product category for dermal sensitisation
- W. H. Simmons and H. A. Appleton, The Handbook of Soap Manufacture, Scott, Greenwood & Son (1908). Ylang-ylang oil so expensive it can only be used in the highest grade soaps