The oils
| Oil | Share |
|---|---|
| Shea Butter | 60.0 % |
| Coconut Oil | 30.0 % |
| Castor Oil | 10.0 % |
How it is made
| Process | Cold process |
| Alkali | NaOH |
| Superfat | 6 % |
| Water | lye water at 33 % |
| Iodine value | 43 |
| INS | 160 |
What the numbers say
Hardness 52 29–54
Cleansing 20 12–22
Conditioning 45 44–69
Bubbly lather 29 14–46
Creamy lather 40 16–48
Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.
Try it differently
26 variationsThe same soap with one thing moved. Each opens in the calculator ready to change again.
- Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) instead of Shea Butter
- Mango Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Kokum Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Sal Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Illipe Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Murumuru Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Shea Butter
- Tucuma Butter instead of Shea Butter
- 5 % superfat
- 8 % superfat
- Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Cocoa Butter (Theobroma Oil) instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Mango Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Mango Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Kokum Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Kokum Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Sal Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Sal Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Illipe Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Illipe Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Murumuru Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Murumuru Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Cupuaçu Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
- Tucuma Butter instead of Shea Butter and 5 % superfat
- Tucuma Butter instead of Shea Butter and 8 % superfat
Where these proportions come from
Our own construction: a two-fat bar, to show what a single butter does at 60 %.
A canonical formulation: the proportions the craft has settled on for this kind of soap. Not transcribed from a document, and not copied from anywhere.