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Liquid soaps

Liquid body wash

A clear glass bottle of golden liquid body wash beside a jar of translucent amber soap paste and a small dish of olive oil on a soft pink backdrop

A mild liquid soap for the shower: olive and high-oleic sunflower oil make up more than half the oils, with coconut oil for lather and castor oil to hold it. Cooked as a potassium hydroxide paste, diluted to 20 % soap and thickened with a little salt water. Unscented.

Skill
Advanced
Method
Hot process
Batch
500 g of oils about 1112 g of batter
Hands-on
1 h 30 min
Cure
2 weeks
Gel phase
In the pot it gels as it cooks
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What you need

For 500 g of oils, which fills a lidded jar for the paste, then washed pump or squeeze bottles once diluted. Weigh everything, liquids included.

Coconut Oil · 30.0 % 150 g 5.29 oz
Olive Oil · 45.0 % 225 g 7.94 oz
Castor Oil · 15.0 % 75 g 2.65 oz
Sunflowerseed Oil - High Oleic Acid · 10.0 % 50 g 1.76 oz
Potassium hydroxide (KOH) · the lye, 90 % pure; if your label says otherwise, weigh 118.1 g at 85 % or 105.7 g at 95 % 111.6 g 3.94 oz
Distilled water · for a 18 % lye solution 500.0 g 17.64 oz
Distilled water for the dilution · about this much, boiling hot: the finished soap should weigh 3002 g, so add 3002 g minus your cooked paste's weight, more if the cook drove off steam 1890 g 66.67 oz
Table salt, for the thickening solution · dissolved in the 80 g of hot distilled water below; you will use only a few grams of the solution per 100 g of soap 20 g 0.71 oz
Distilled water, hot, for the salt solution · for the method, not part of the formula 80 g 2.82 oz
Superfat
3.5 %
Temperatures
Lye solution cooled below 82 °C (180 °F), oils at 65 to 71 °C (150 to 160 °F), cooked on low

Resize or change it in the calculator

Method

  1. Get ready

    Put on sealed goggles, nitrile gloves and long sleeves, and keep them on until the paste is cooked. Weigh 150 g of coconut oil, 225 g of olive oil, 75 g of castor oil and 50 g of high-oleic sunflower oil into a slow cooker of 4.5 litres or more, 500 g of distilled water into a heat-proof jug and 111.6 g of potassium hydroxide flakes into a dry container, then close the flake tub at once.
  2. Make the lye solution

    At an open window, add the flakes to the water a little at a time, stirring, never the water to the flakes. It fizzes loudly and gets very hot; let it cool below 82 °C (180 °F), and keep it away from aluminium, tin and zinc, which it attacks, giving off hydrogen.
  3. Warm the oils

    Melt the coconut oil in the slow cooker on low, stir in the other oils and bring them to 65 to 71 °C (150 to 160 °F).
  4. Blend to a paste

    Pour the lye solution into the oils and stick blend in bursts of a minute or two, stirring between them. The batter thickens, separates and thins, then comes back like thick apple sauce, often several times; with this much water and so much liquid oil it can take 45 minutes or more to hold together as a thick, opaque paste that no longer separates when you stop.
  5. Cover and cook

    Put the lid on and leave the cooker on low. Check after 15 to 20 minutes and again 15 to 20 minutes later, stirring back any liquid that has separated, then stir every 30 to 45 minutes.
  6. Cook until translucent

    Over 3 to 4 hours the paste turns golden and translucent from the edges inwards, softer than a low-water paste. It is ready to test when no opaque, creamy patches come up as you fold it over.
  7. Test a spoonful in boiling water

    Stir 28 g (1 oz) of paste into 59 ml (2 fl oz) of boiling water until it dissolves, and let it cool. Clear or faintly hazy means the paste is done; milky, or with an oily film on top, means another hour of cooking and a second test.
  8. Weigh the paste

    Turn off the cooker, let the paste cool and weigh all of it. It will weigh less than the 1111.6 g that went in, because steam left the pot, and the dilution needs the real figure.
  9. Work out the water

    The paste holds 600.4 g of soap: the 500 g of oils plus the 100.4 g of pure potassium hydroxide in 111.6 g of 90 % flakes. At 20 % soap that makes 3002 g of body wash however much steam the cook drove off, so the water to add is 3002 g minus your paste's weight, about 1.70 g for every gram of paste if it lost none; the liquid soap dilution calculator does the same sum.
  10. Dilute it overnight

    Break the paste into a large pot and pour on all but the last 200 g of that water, boiling hot. Stir gently without whipping up foam, cover it and leave it overnight; the next day, at room temperature, add the rest only if it is still thicker than you want.
  11. Thicken it with salt

    Dissolve the 20 g of table salt in the 80 g of hot distilled water. Stir 1 g of this solution into a 100 g sample of the soap and wait an hour, repeating until a dose stops helping; then give the batch the same amount per 100 g, since past its peak more salt thins it again.
  12. Settle and bottle

    Leave the soap covered for a week or two so any haze sinks, then pour the clear soap off the sediment into washed and dried bottles.
  13. Keep it clean

    Diluted, this is four-fifths water, and it can grow bacteria and mould once they get in: never top up a half-empty bottle, and keep the rest as paste in a closed jar, diluting a little at a time. To keep diluted soap for long, or to sell it, it needs a preservative that works at pH 9 to 10, and soap for sale needs a challenge test as well.

Tips

  • The lye assumes potassium hydroxide flakes of 90 % purity, the usual label figure. If your label says otherwise, enter it in the calculator before you weigh: with 95 % flakes the same weight takes the superfat from 3.5 % to about −1.9 %, a lye-heavy paste.
  • The 3.5 % superfat is a margin for the spread in published saponification values, not oil for feel, and more oil only clouds the soap. With it the paste cannot come out lye-heavy, so leave out the borax or citric acid that older recipes neutralise with.
  • To scent it, stir half a teaspoon of essential oil into 85 g of warm soap and wait half an hour: citrus oils especially can thin or cloud liquid soap, and they undo the salt thickening. If the sample holds, use 0.5 to 1 % of the diluted soap's weight.
  • For a quicker, bubblier soap by the sink, see the liquid hand soap; for the mildest of all, the liquid castile. Use distilled water throughout: minerals in tap water form insoluble soaps that show as haze.

Why make it

A mild, pourable soap for the shower. Less coconut and more olive and high-oleic sunflower oil than a hand soap bring cleansing down to 20 and conditioning up to 64 on our scale, and oleic acid, about 42 % of the fatty acids, is what lets a little salt thicken it. It is unscented, in line with the American Academy of Dermatology's advice to wash dry skin with a gentle, fragrance-free cleanser in short, warm showers. Be clear about what it is, though: true soap, alkaline like any other, and a review of skin cleansers found that soaps disturb the skin's barrier more than mild synthetic cleansers do. The NHS advises people with eczema to wash with an emollient instead of soap, this one included. Many makers simply like knowing every ingredient in their wash; that is a preference, not a measured benefit.

Sources

What tradition, makers' experience and research say about soaps like this, each labelled for what it is. It is not medical advice, and no soap treats a skin condition: if you have one, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

What the numbers say

  • Lauric acid 14.7 %
  • Myristic acid 5.7 %
  • Palmitic acid 9.5 %
  • Stearic acid 3.0 %
  • Ricinoleic acid 13.3 %
  • Oleic acid 42.2 %
  • Linoleic acid 7.7 %
  • Other 5.8 %

Saturated : unsaturated 37 : 63

Hardness 33 29–54
Cleansing 20 12–22
Conditioning 64 44–69
Bubbly lather 34 14–46
Creamy lather 26 16–48

Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.

From the guides

All guides

Where these proportions come from

Our own formulation: less coconut oil than a hand soap, on the same potassium hydroxide system, with olive and high-oleic sunflower oil making up more than half the oils so that salt can thicken it. The superfat is 3.5 %, the lowest in half-point steps at which the published saponification ranges cannot leave the paste lye-heavy (at 0 % they could by 3.1 %), and the paste takes water equal to the oils. The method, a paste cooked in a slow cooker until translucent, tested in boiling water, diluted by weight and thickened with salt water, follows the liquid soap chapter of David Fisher's Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making, as our liquid soap guide does.

Formulation adapted from The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making by David Fisher (Creative Publishing International, 2018). The method and notes are ours.

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