The oils
| Oil | Share |
|---|---|
| Stearic Acid (triple-pressed, ~50:50 C16/C18) | 40.0 % |
| Coconut Oil | 25.0 % |
| Olive Oil (virgin / refined / olive oil) | 20.0 % |
| Castor Oil | 10.0 % |
| Shea Butter | 5.0 % |
How it is made
| Process | Cold process |
| Alkali | NaOH + KOH |
| Superfat | 3 % |
| Water | 45 % of the oils |
| Iodine value | 30 |
| INS | 182 |
What the numbers say
Hardness 66 above 29–54
Cleansing 18 12–22
Conditioning 32 below 44–69
Bubbly lather 27 14–46
Creamy lather 57 above 16–48
Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.
Try it differently
5 variationsThe same soap with one thing moved. Each opens in the calculator ready to change again.
Where these proportions come from
Stearic acid saponifies almost instantly. It is added to the hot oils and the lye goes in fast.
Craft convention: a dense stearic lather from 30–50 % stearic acid, saponified with a mixed KOH/NaOH alkali so the puck is firm but whips.
A canonical formulation: the proportions the craft has settled on for this kind of soap. Not transcribed from a document, and not copied from anywhere.