Lemongrass oil (East Indian)
Under the IFRA Standards a rinse-off soap may hold up to 1.66 % of this oil, a limit set by its Citral.
IFRA maximum for soap
Restricted constituents, at the typical levels IFRA's annex gives:
- Geranial
- 41.42 %
- Neral
- 30.54 %
- Geraniol
- 5.25 %
- (E) 3,7-Dimethyl-3,6-octadienal (iso-Geranial)
- 1.3 %
- (Z) 3,7-Dimethyl-3,6-octadienal (iso-Neral)
- 0.78 %
- Citronellal
- 0.51 %
- Isoeugenol
- 0.47 %
- dl-Citronellol
- 0.25 %
- Citronellyl acetate
- 0.23 %
- Eugenol
- 0.08 %
- Methyl eugenol
- 0.05 %
Worked out from typical levels. A supplier's certificate for your lot comes first, and its figure is the one to follow.
Check a blend against its IFRA limits and list its allergens in the fragrance and allergen calculator.
How essential oils behave in soap, and how much to use: Scenting soap.
Identity and labelling
Cymbopogon Flexuosus Oil
- Botanical name
- Cymbopogon flexuosus
- CAS
- 91844-92-7
- EC
- 295-161-9
The EU names this oil itself as a fragrance allergen (Regulation (EU) 2023/1545, Annex III entry 354): it goes on the label by name above 0.01 % in a rinse-off product.
What it is and how it behaves in soap
East Indian lemongrass oil is steam-distilled from the leaves and stems of Cymbopogon flexuosus, the species perfumers prefer for its yield (EFSA). India is the largest producer (Kumar and colleagues). It is mostly citral and smells of strong, sweet lemon with a grassy note.
Unlike lemon peel, it lasts in soap. Faiola lists lemongrass among the oils that behave well, uses it to anchor volatile lime and scents her step-by-step bar with it; Grosso uses it to boost citrus. Faiola's recipes run from 2 to nearly 6 % of the oils and Cable's from 0.6 to 1.6 %. Citral holds the IFRA figure on this page well below Faiola's rates; that figure is the ceiling, and it makes lemongrass a blending oil more than a whole scent.
Citral is a skin sensitiser, and Cable notes lemongrass irritates some skin. Soap books sell it for camping bars, but no soap keeps insects away.
Recipes that use it
Sources
- CosIng, the cosmetic ingredient database: CYMBOPOGON FLEXUOSUS OIL, European Commission
- Commission Regulation (EU) 2023/1545 amending Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 as regards labelling of fragrance allergens in cosmetic products, European Commission. Annex, entry 354
- EFSA FEEDAP Panel, Safety and efficacy of a feed additive consisting of an essential oil derived from the aerial parts of Cymbopogon flexuosus (lemongrass oil) for all animal species, EFSA Journal (2023). Steam distillation of the aerial parts; the species the perfume industry prefers for its higher yield
- Kumar and colleagues, Cleaner production of essential oils from Indian basil, lemongrass and coriander leaves using ultrasonic and ohmic heating pre-treatment systems, Scientific Reports 13, Springer Nature (2023). India the largest producer of lemongrass oil
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Soap Crafting, Storey Publishing (2013). Lemongrass among the essential oils that are typically wonderful in cold process soap; used at 2.1 to 5.8 % of the oils
- Anne-Marie Faiola, Pure Soapmaking, Storey Publishing (2016). Lemongrass as the sturdier anchor for volatile lime; the scent of her step-by-step recipe; used at 2.3 to 4.5 % of the oils
- Alicia Grosso, The Everything Soapmaking Book, 3rd edition, Adams Media (2013). Lemongrass used as a booster for citrus
- Kelly Cable, The Natural Soap Making Book for Beginners, Althea Press (2017). Lemongrass (Cymbopogon flexuosus) at 0.6 to 1.6 % of the oils; can be a skin irritant to some
- Opinion on fragrance allergens in cosmetic products (SCCS/1459/11), Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety, European Commission (2012). Citral and lemongrass oil among the established contact allergens