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Old-fashioned lard bar

A stack of bright white soap bars beside a small dish of white lard on a deep red backdrop

Lard and coconut oil and nothing else: the plain white bar that farmhouses made for generations, with the lye weighed so the soap comes out mild. Cheap, hard and creamy, with a gentle lather, and unscented.

Skill
Beginner
Method
Cold process
Batch
1000 g of oils about 1430 g of batter
Hands-on
1 hour
Cure
6 weeks
Gel phase
Either way gel or not, both work
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What you need

For 1000 g of oils, which fills a 1.5 litre loaf mould. Weigh everything, liquids included.

Lard · 80.0 % 800 g 28.22 oz
Coconut Oil · 20.0 % 200 g 7.05 oz
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) · the lye, 100 % pure 141.7 g 5.00 oz
Distilled water · for a 33 % lye solution 287.8 g 10.15 oz
Superfat
5 %
Temperatures
Fats at 38 to 43 °C (100 to 110 °F), lye solution anywhere from 32 to 43 °C (90 to 110 °F)

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Method

  1. Get ready

    Put on splash goggles, nitrile gloves and long sleeves, open a window or turn on the extractor fan, and keep children and pets out of the room. Line or set out the mould where it can stay for two days.
  2. Choose good lard

    Use fresh, white lard that smells of nothing. If it smells meaty or sour, the soap will too, so render your own in water or buy a fresher block.
  3. Weigh the fats

    Weigh 800 g lard and 200 g coconut oil into the pot.
  4. Make the lye solution

    Weigh 287.8 g distilled water into a heat-safe jug and 141.7 g sodium hydroxide into a dry container. By an open window, pour the lye slowly into the water, never the water onto the lye, and stir until clear; leave it to cool, labelled and out of reach.
  5. Melt the fats

    Melt the lard and coconut oil together on the lowest heat until clear, then let them cool to about 40 °C (104 °F).
  6. Check the temperatures

    Go ahead when the fats read 38 to 43 °C (100 to 110 °F) and the lye solution anywhere from 32 to 43 °C (90 to 110 °F). Much cooler and the lard starts to set, which thickens the batter before it has really traced.
  7. Combine and blend to light trace

    Pour the lye solution into the fats down the shaft of the stick blender and blend in short pulses, stirring between them. Stop when the batter is opaque and a drizzle leaves a faint line on the surface.
  8. Pour and cover

    Pour into the mould, tap it on the worktop to raise air bubbles, and cover it with a lid or board and a folded towel. Leave it undisturbed for a day.
  9. Clean up

    With your gloves still on, wipe the batter off the pot and tools with paper towels into the bin, then wash them in hot soapy water.
  10. Unmould and cut

    After 24 to 48 hours, when the loaf is firm, unmould it with gloves on and cut it into bars about 2.5 cm (1 in) thick. It will be bright white and still a little soft, which is normal for lard.
  11. Cure

    Stand the bars on edge in a dry, airy place for six weeks, turning them now and then. Lard soap is mild early but keeps hardening for weeks, and the longer cure makes it last longer in use.

Tips

  • This is a quiet-lathering bar, with small creamy bubbles rather than foam. For more lather, replace 5 % of the lard with castor oil and let the calculator work out the new lye.
  • Supermarket lard is often partly hydrogenated so that it keeps longer. It still makes good soap and needs almost exactly the same lye; home-rendered leaf lard gives the whitest bar.
  • Leave the loaf in the mould another day if it is soft after 48 hours: lard bars start softer than palm or tallow ones and firm up steadily.

Why make it

This is the soap of the old farmhouse. Lard came from the pig killed in December or January, lye was leached from hardwood ash, and the soap was stirred, poured and left for weeks before anyone used it (Discovery Park of America). Lard makes a white, hard bar, hardness 49 and creamy 34 on our scale, with a small, dense lather, and the fifth of coconut oil adds some bubbles. Weighing the lye for a 5 % superfat takes away the guesswork that made old lye soap harsh, and makers often find lard soap mild on the skin. It suits anyone who wants a plain, cheap, unscented bar for every day. The trade-offs are honest ones: it is not vegetarian, and it wants its full six weeks, getting harder and longer-lasting as it dries.

Sources

What tradition, makers' experience and research say about soaps like this, each labelled for what it is. It is not medical advice, and no soap treats a skin condition: if you have one, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

What the numbers say

  • Lauric acid 9.8 %
  • Myristic acid 5.2 %
  • Palmitic acid 21.8 %
  • Stearic acid 12.6 %
  • Oleic acid 37.5 %
  • Linoleic acid 6.8 %
  • α-Linolenic acid 1.2 %
  • Other 7.8 %

Saturated : unsaturated 52 : 48

Hardness 49 29–54
Cleansing 15 12–22
Conditioning 45 44–69
Bubbly lather 15 14–46
Creamy lather 34 16–48

Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.

From the guides

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Where these proportions come from

The farmhouse lard soap tradition, with two changes: a fifth of the fat is coconut oil for a fuller lather, and the lye is weighed for a 5 % superfat instead of judged by eye, as it had to be when lye was leached from wood ash.

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