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Everyday bars

Stout beer bar

Creamy camel-coloured stout soap bars beside a short glass of dark stout and curls of orange peel on a deep blue backdrop

A palm-free everyday bar made with flat, boiled stout as all of its liquid and scented with sweet orange and cedarwood. The batter goes deep brown and cures to a creamy camel, and the beery smell fades as it cures.

Skill
Intermediate
Method
Cold process
Batch
1000 g of oils about 1479 g of batter
Hands-on
1 h 15 min
Cure
6 weeks
Gel phase
No keep it cool
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What you need

For 1000 g of oils, which fills a 1.5 litre loaf mould. Weigh everything, liquids included.

Olive Oil · 30.0 % 300 g 10.58 oz
Coconut Oil · 30.0 % 300 g 10.58 oz
Sunflowerseed Oil - High Oleic Acid · 15.0 % 150 g 5.29 oz
Rice Bran Oil · 10.0 % 100 g 3.53 oz
Shea Butter · 10.0 % 100 g 3.53 oz
Cocoa Butter · 5.0 % 50 g 1.76 oz
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) · the lye, 100 % pure 140.1 g 4.94 oz
Stout, flattened, boiled and frozen · all of the liquid; weighed after boiling and cooling 309 g 10.90 oz
Sweet orange essential oil · 2.0 % of the oils, at trace 20 g 0.71 oz
Atlas cedarwood essential oil · 1.0 % of the oils, at trace 10 g 0.35 oz
Superfat
6 %
Temperatures
Stout lye kept below 30 °C (86 °F); oils at 32 to 35 °C (90 to 95 °F) when it goes in

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Method

  1. Flatten and boil the stout

    Open about 650 g of stout, two 330 ml bottles, into a large pan and leave it for a few hours to go flat. Simmer it uncovered for 20 minutes, watching it closely because it foams, then let it cool.
  2. Weigh and freeze it

    Weigh 309 g of the cooled stout into an ice-cube tray and freeze it solid. Boiled beer goes mouldy at room temperature, so freeze it the day you boil it.
  3. Get ready

    Put on goggles, gloves and long sleeves, open a window or run the extractor, because stout and lye smell strongly together, then weigh the oils and lye and line the mould.
  4. Melt the oils

    Melt the coconut oil, shea butter and cocoa butter, stir in the olive, sunflower and rice bran oils, and let them cool to 32 to 35 °C (90 to 95 °F), still clear.
  5. Add the lye to the frozen stout

    Put the stout cubes in a heat-safe jug standing in iced water and sprinkle in the lye a spoonful at a time, stirring until each dissolves; never pour the stout onto the lye. Take 10 to 15 minutes and keep it below 30 °C (86 °F); a little foam and a yeasty smell are normal.
  6. Strain and combine

    With the oils at 32 to 35 °C (90 to 95 °F), pour the cold stout lye through a stainless steel sieve into them, which shows you no lye is left undissolved in the dark liquid, and stick blend in short bursts to light trace.
  7. Scent it

    Stir in the orange and cedarwood oils by hand until evenly mixed.
  8. Pour

    Pour into the mould, tap it on the bench to release air, and smooth the top.
  9. Don't insulate

    Leave the mould uncovered in a cool room: the stout's sugars heat the loaf on their own. If the top domes or cracks, move it into the fridge.
  10. Unmould and cut

    Unmould with gloves on after 24 to 48 hours, when the loaf is firm, and cut it into bars.
  11. Cure

    Cure the bars on a rack with air around them for six weeks, turning them now and then; the beery smell fades in the first few weeks.

Tips

  • Boiling doesn't take out all the alcohol: after 20 minutes of simmering over a third of it is still there. The boil is for the bubbles, which foam up when the lye hits them, and to cut the alcohol, not to remove it.
  • Frozen stout and an ice bath do more than keep the colour: sugars heated above 84 °C (183 °F) with lye can give off carbon monoxide, and lye stirred into room-temperature beer can get that hot.
  • Ordinary sweet orange oil fades from cold process soap within weeks. A 5-fold or 10-fold orange lasts longer, and the cedarwood helps anchor it.
  • A paler beer gives a paler bar; any stout or porter gives about this colour.

Why make it

A palm-free everyday bar, cleansing 20 and conditioning 56 on our scale. Those numbers count only the oils; the sugars left in stout add bubbles on top, which is why makers have long used beer for its lather (Anne-Marie Faiola). It cures to a creamy camel colour, and the beery smell fades within a few weeks, leaving orange and cedarwood. People make it as a gift for beer drinkers, for the story, or to use a home brew. Beyond the lather, any benefit claimed for hops or brewer's yeast in soap rests on tradition rather than evidence, since most of what beer brings is water and sugar. It is a slightly fiddly bar to make, because the stout and the lye must be kept cold.

Sources

  • Anne-Marie Faiola, Pure Soapmaking · Storey Publishing, 2016

What tradition, makers' experience and research say about soaps like this, each labelled for what it is. It is not medical advice, and no soap treats a skin condition: if you have one, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

What the numbers say

  • Lauric acid 14.8 %
  • Myristic acid 5.7 %
  • Palmitic acid 10.9 %
  • Stearic acid 8.5 %
  • Oleic acid 46.1 %
  • Linoleic acid 9.6 %
  • Other 5.7 %

Saturated : unsaturated 44 : 56

Hardness 40 29–54
Cleansing 20 12–22
Conditioning 56 44–69
Bubbly lather 20 14–46
Creamy lather 19 16–48

Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.

From the guides

All guides

Where these proportions come from

David Fisher's palm-free base, the one he uses for his beer soaps, with high-oleic sunflower oil in place of his sunflower oil for a longer shelf life, at a 6 % superfat. Flat, boiled stout replaces all the water, as it does in his, Faiola's and Corley Barto's beer bars.

Formulation adapted from The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making by David Fisher (Creative Publishing International, 2018). The method and notes are ours.

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