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Richer bars

Goat milk powder bar

Smooth ivory bars of goat milk soap beside a small dish of goat milk powder on a sage green backdrop

A firm tallow, olive and coconut bar with goat milk made from powder, stirred in as a paste at trace, and a clean peppermint scent. There is no freezing and no ice bath, because the lye goes into plain water.

Skill
Beginner
Method
Cold process
Batch
1000 g of oils about 1458 g of batter
Hands-on
45 min
Cure
6 weeks
Gel phase
No keep it cool
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What you need

For 1000 g of oils, which fills a 1.5 litre loaf mould. Weigh everything, liquids included.

Edible Tallow · 35.0 % 350 g 12.35 oz
Olive Oil · 35.0 % 350 g 12.35 oz
Coconut Oil · 25.0 % 250 g 8.82 oz
Castor Oil · 5.0 % 50 g 1.76 oz
Sodium hydroxide (NaOH) · the lye, 100 % pure 141.0 g 4.97 oz
Distilled water · 246 g for a 36 % lye solution, 40 g set aside 285.8 g 10.08 oz
Goat milk powder · a little over 2 tbsp, whisked to a paste with 40 g of the recipe's water 16 g 0.56 oz
Peppermint essential oil · 1.5 % of the oils, at trace 15 g 0.53 oz
Superfat
5 %
Temperatures
Lye solution and oils at about 35 °C (95 °F)

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Method

  1. Get ready

    Put on goggles, gloves and long sleeves, weigh the oils, lye, milk powder and peppermint oil, line the mould and clear a shelf in the fridge.
  2. Divide the water

    Weigh 40 g of the distilled water into a small bowl for the milk, and the rest into a heat-safe jug for the lye.
  3. Make the lye solution

    Where the air moves, sprinkle the sodium hydroxide into the water in the jug, never the water onto the lye, stir until it clears, and let it cool to about 35 °C (95 °F).
  4. Make the milk paste

    Whisk the goat milk powder into the 40 g of water a spoonful at a time until it is smooth, like condensed milk, and leave it to stand.
  5. Melt the oils

    Melt the tallow and coconut oil gently, stir in the olive and castor oils, and let them cool to about 35 °C (95 °F).
  6. Blend to light trace

    Pour the lye solution into the oils through a sieve and stick blend in short bursts, stirring between them, until the batter looks like thin custard.
  7. Add the milk and peppermint

    Stir the milk paste once more, pour it in with the peppermint essential oil, and stick blend for a few seconds until evenly mixed.
  8. Pour

    Pour into the mould, tap it on the bench to release air and smooth the top.
  9. Keep it cool

    Put the mould uncovered in the fridge for 24 hours. The milk is still milk, sugar and all, and browns if the loaf heats into gel.
  10. Unmould and cut

    Let the loaf come back to room temperature, then unmould and cut it once firm, usually 24 to 48 hours after pouring. Tallow makes a hard bar that cuts cleanly.
  11. Cure

    Stand the bars on a rack with air around them for six weeks, turning them now and then.

Tips

  • Add the powder to the water a spoonful at a time and whisk each one in. Tipped in all at once it forms lumps that turn into specks in the bars.
  • This is roughly half-strength milk, 16 g of powder for the recipe's 286 g of water. Fisher allows up to full-strength milk, but a lot of powder softens the bar, so start here.
  • Opened milk powder goes stale within a couple of months, so use a fresh pack.

Why make it

A firm, long-lasting milk soap for anyone who would rather not freeze milk. Tallow, the fat the soap trade built its curd and milled soaps on (Simmons and Appleton), gives a hard bar with a creamy, steady lather, 44 for hardness and 30 for creaminess on our scale, and olive and coconut round it out. The goat milk comes from powder stirred in at trace, so the lye goes into plain water and there is no ice bath. Makers choose milk soaps for a richer feel and value them for dry skin (Makela), a reputation that rests on experience rather than trials, and at roughly half-strength milk this bar carries less of it than a full milk soap. The peppermint is a clean scent; leave it out for fragrance-sensitive skin.

Sources

  • The Handbook of Soap Manufacture · Scott, Greenwood & Son, 1908
  • Making Natural Milk Soap (excerpted from Milk-Based Soaps) · Storey Publishing, 1999

What tradition, makers' experience and research say about soaps like this, each labelled for what it is. It is not medical advice, and no soap treats a skin condition: if you have one, ask a doctor or pharmacist.

What the numbers say

  • Lauric acid 12.3 %
  • Myristic acid 6.1 %
  • Palmitic acid 15.9 %
  • Stearic acid 9.7 %
  • Ricinoleic acid 4.4 %
  • Oleic acid 39.4 %
  • Linoleic acid 6.2 %
  • Other 6.0 %

Saturated : unsaturated 48 : 52

Hardness 44 29–54
Cleansing 18 12–22
Conditioning 51 44–69
Bubbly lather 23 14–46
Creamy lather 30 16–48

Computed from the fatty acids of the fats above. The bands are what the craft has settled on, not chemistry — a bar outside one is not wrong.

From the guides

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Where these proportions come from

Our own tallow, olive and coconut bar with the goat milk bought as powder. The powder is handled the way Fisher describes, mixed to a slurry with water held back from the lye and stirred in at trace, here at about 2 tablespoons per cup of the recipe's water, roughly half-strength milk.

Formulation adapted from The Complete Photo Guide to Soap Making by David Fisher (Creative Publishing International, 2018). The method and notes are ours.

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